Trentino, the beginning of Italy
On the way to beautiful cycling destinations we quickly think of the French Alps, or the north of Italy in the Bormio area with the mythical Stelvio around the corner. But there is more and you don't have to drive that much further. Trentino, just above Lake Garda, is such a place. Representatives of Trentino Marketing even claim that Italy really starts here. We had to discover that!
Ambassador and cycling guide Michele talks bluntly about the region
On the way to Molveno, 40 kilometers from Trento, we imagine what awaits us. Companion Rob and I both have a lot of cycling experience, but Trentino as a cycling destination is unknown to us. We're going to be surprised. The name of the hotel predicts beautiful surroundings. Alpine resort Belvedere turns out to be a stately hotel in the center of Molveno. Molveno, located on Lago di Molveno, is a small charming village. I can well imagine that it is teeming with tourists here in the summer. Hotels and restaurants abound and the area, with the lake and surrounding mountains, is beautiful. Standing on our balcony and looking out over the lake and the Brenta Dolomites, Rob and I only want one thing, cycling! It is our arrival day and a ride with guide Michele is not scheduled until the next day. We decide to change clothes and go for a bike ride in the area.
Brenta Dolomites
We drive out of the village and cycle along Lago di Molveno towards San Lorenzo in Banale. Wonderful to be in Italy! I don't speak the language, but if you pronounce three place names in a row and end with arrivederci or va bene, it quickly sounds as if you are explaining the way to the bakery to someone in perfect Italian. The road along the lake runs gently downhill and we can keep going. As mentioned, towards San Lorenzo in Banale. Cycling through the valley we see snow-capped peaks of the Brenta Dolomites in the distance. In San Lorenzo we decide to return to Molveno, it starts to rain lightly and tomorrow we have to go with guide Michele.
Awakened by the church bell
We don't have to set the alarm clock. The Molveno church bell wakes us up well in time for breakfast. When we report to the hotel reception, Michele is already waiting for us. Michele is what you call a real guide. He talks enthusiastically about the area. Although the weather is not really attractive for cycling, we still go out. Rain jackets in the back pocket as a precaution. We discover the Molveno area in September. No mass tourism now, but the region is certainly not extinct. While climbing to the ski village of Andalo, Michele tells us that tomorrow he is going on a hike with a group of Swedish ladies. That sounds nice. When he tells us that they are all over sixty, we drop out. The villages around the lake are mainly populated by families in the summer, but in the autumn it is the retirees who flock to Trentino. Especially for walking.
Ferrari wines
A wonderfully long descent over good and wide roads with beautiful hairpin bends takes us to Mezzolombardo. Via Nave San Rocco we arrive at the banks of the Adige River. We drive along this river towards Lavis. Vineyards dominate the area. Around the capital Trento there are vineyards on beautiful hills and in picturesque valleys. They even reach up to an altitude of 800 meters. This is very high by European standards. This means that Trentino is an ideal place for making fresh and powerful still wines, with beautiful acidity, due to its altitude. And above all, it is a region where delicious sparkling wines come from. In fact, the acids in the wines from the higher slopes are ideal for sparkling wines. Ferrari winery has been making a sparkling wine here since 1902 that can compete with a good Champagne. We cycle towards Lavis. Michele chats effortlessly about the region, old ski lifts and therefore wine. Time to increase the pace uphill.
Vineyards dominate the landscape
From Lavis we start climbing. Soon we can enjoy a beautiful view. The vegetation on the mountain slopes is low due to the vineyards. You can easily see four or five mountains further here. Beautiful! We no longer hear Michele talking. In fact, when we look back he has disappeared. Not surprising, the friendly ambassador of Trentino is at least 10 years older than us and cycles with a large backpack on his back. No idea what he has with him. The climb ends in Palu di Giove. We wait here for Michele and when he catches up with us again, he has no need to recover. He's taking us to a big trophy. A large copper cup is located here at the beginning of the village. It is an enlargement of the cup that Tom Dumoulin held up when he won the Giro. It is not without reason that the cup is in Palu di Giove. This village is the birthplace of no fewer than two Italian cycling heroes, Francesco Moser and his cousin Gilberto Simoni. In the center of the village we can refill our water bottles at a natural spring. Delicious!
Child of the region, Gianni Moscon
We descend to San Michele all'Adige and on the way to the valley the view is fantastic. The rugged Dolomites stretch out before you. Via a deserted country road we arrive at the foot of the final climb of the day towards Molveno. Trentino may be unknown territory for us, but this is certainly not the case for Italian cyclists. Because who do we meet on the deserted country road just mentioned? The great and much discussed Italian cycling talent Gianni Moscon. He uses the deserted country road to perfect the position on his time trial bike. And with results. In October he became Italian time trial champion for the second time. Moscon is a child of the region and has known for years that the Brenta Dolomites are great for cycling. Anyway, I digress. The last part of the ride takes us back to Molveno via Spormaggiore, Cavedago and Andalo. With mountains up to a height of 1,400 meters, this area is wonderful for cycling. The view on this last climb is also phenomenal. Back in Molveno we treat Michele to a well-deserved lunch on the edge of Lago di Molveno. Rob and I have to leave Trentino again the next day and head to Villabassa in South Tyrol. The next adventure awaits us there.
Would you also like to experience great adventures in 2019? With CYCLOsportive we offer a number of beautiful trips to Granfondo's in Italy, Austria and Switzerland. Check the following link and see what we have to offer you
Do you also want to cycle in Trentino? Molveno is a great base. Then check the following websites for the possibilities:
– Visit Trentino
– Dolomites hotel
– Bergfex
